At the Grill with Chef Scott Roberts: Duck

We're switching things up a bit with post 3 of 4 in our series with chef Scott Roberts. You can read his recipe for scallops here, and grilled sea bream here. This time we're taking a break from seafood to learn about duck. 

My favorite part about photographing this segment (aside from getting to eat it after) was watching the organization and tidiness of his process which can only be described as military-like cleanliness. Or, the #1 thing that makes an allergic person both relaxed and happy when dining out.  I literally had to do nothing here, aside from move the lights around, stand on a floor pouf to get the angle, and click my camera. Everything was either already prepped and in its own container, or washed, dried, and presented nicely on a plate. Just like this:

In Scott's words:

"A good restaurant should operate like a machine. Keeping a clean and organised workspace is the first step cooks can take to improve productivity and quality."

And in my words:

Quebec Duck Breast, Pickled Plum, Rapini, Szechuan Pepper

Free from dairy, nuts, peanuts, egg, soy, mustard, wheat, oats, fish, shellfish

Ingredients
1 duck breast
1 tsp. szechuan peppercorns
salt to taste
a sprinkle of maple sugar
6 morels
a couple sprigs of thyme
olive oil
1 bunch of rapini

For the plums:
3 plums
1/3 cup white wine vinegar
1 1/4 cups water
4 tbsp. sugar
2 tsp salt

Method

First, spare yourself any embarrassment and learn how to properly pronounce morels. I've been saying morals for years.

The next thing to do is prep the plums which should be done ahead of time. Slice them into 4 segments, and then into bite sized pieces. Bring vinegar and water to a boil with the sugar, salt, and plum scraps. Let it sit for 10 minutes, covered and off the heat. Strain the warm liquid over the plum segments and then let sit for at least 2 hours.

For the morels, quickly rinse and pat dry as they can be gritty.

Since this is part of our "At The Grill" series, you're probably wondering what was grilled here. And the answer is the rapini. If you haven't grilled rapini, lettuce, or any leafy green, please stop everything and go do that. It's very important that you know how good it tastes. To cook it like Scott did, heat up the charcoal grill, drizzle the greens with a little olive oil, and toss them on until they are tender and have a nice char.

For the duck breast, you'll notice that it's very fatty on the skin side. Rub that side with the cracked peppercorns and salt, and then put it face down into a hot stainless steel pan. Let it fry for 12 - 15 minutes on medium heat. Then take it off the heat and let the flip to let the other side cook for a minute. Sprinkle a little maple sugar on the skin, then transfer it to the charcoal and grill it on the skin side until it's medium to medium rare depending on your preference. Duck is not like other poultry and can safely be eaten rare. 

Let it rest for 10 - 15 minutes before plating. Add the morels and thyme to the pan and give them a nice fry until tender and aromatic. 

Again, I came over and everything was just arranged like this. 

To plate it, cut the duck breast into 1-inch thick slices, slice the morels in half, and pull the nice looking leaves off the rapini. Arrange it around the plate and then add the plums and plum juice as a sauce. 

The rapini is smokey, the plums are sweet and tart, the morels are earthy, and the duck breast is rich and tender. 

Serves 2

If you would like to contact Scott for catering, events or other opportunities, feel free to send an email to scott7@gmail.com

Allergy Travel in Italy: A Wedding in Montepulciano

Navigating restaurants abroad in a country where you don't share the same language as the locals can be very difficult. I speak very little Italian but luckily my uncle and aunt who I was there visiting were able to help. Italians are familiar with gluten intolerance and celiac disease, and in fact there were many occasions on which I saw GF options. Dairy and nut allergies, however, are decidedly rare over in Italia. It didn't help that we were in a very non-tourist-y area where barely anyone spoke English. One night when Bran and I were having dinner without my relatives we actually ended up getting my uncle to call ahead to a restaurant where he knew the owner. They arranged for there to be something I could eat and it was an amazing meal. We had a mound of barbecued goat skewers, hearty bowls of pasta, and fresh melon for dessert at the local family restaurant called Longhorn in Pescara, Abruzzo. 

We visited Chieti, a nearby town, one afternoon. This was one of my nonno's favorite towns and he often spoke of how many fond memories he had in Chieti. I had been several times as a kid and was eager to go back. We went during siesta without thinking about how all the restaurants would be closed for lunch, and when we finally did find a couple places they were unwilling to accommodate my allergies. I think the issue was that they didn't understand and my translation cards were not enough of an explanation. Oh and did I mention it was about 45C? Luckily there was a grocery store open and we were able to buy some fruit, juice, and water to hold us over. Grocery stores are often my saving grace while on vacation.

Dining out in Pescara (below) was a little easier because my relatives were often around and had arranged restaurants for the family to eat in each night. It's a city where fishing is a main industry and the harbour is lined with boats and beach clubs. We found a cafe that had great Wifi signal and planted ourselves there during siesta most days to get some work done. They made a great Americano coffee, but we also learned that Americano is the name of the cocktail below that we accidentally ordered. 

We also visited the beautiful town of Loreto which I really regret not having been able to spend more time in. Penne was also on the list although I had been there in the past. Both are quaint mountainside towns with stunning views and impeccable ancient fixtures and details. 

Loreto

And of course there was a beautiful wedding, the main purpose of our trip. The ceremony took place in an ancient stone church and the reception was a day-long event at a restored villa on the mountainside. I managed to stave off my anxiety throughout the seafood and grill buffet courses but once we got to the sit-down dinner I began to get anxious. Seafood is rarely prepared with dairy products like cheese or butter in most regions of Italian cuisine. In fact, some may be offended if you ask! My dad notoriously got in trouble by a chef in Italy several years back when he was telling her (he speaks Italian) about my allergies - she swore to him there was no way seafood and cheese would ever meet in her kitchen.

There were several courses of pasta and each of them had a creamy sauce that the waiter said was made with olive oil but I was convinced was made with butter. I immediately got a vision of an ambulance trying to scale the mountain to get me, ruining the wedding, and having to be resuscitated in the extreme heat. I did end up getting over it and tasting about a tbsp of pasta, but I gave myself a D for how well I managed my fears at that point. As soon as the dinner was over I had a glass of wine, relaxed, and we danced to the live music while the sun set over the ocean view. 

Reasons You Should Visit Colette This Summer

Colette Grand Cafe in Toronto has a reputation for being a strikingly beautiful French restaurant and cafe, and it's easy to see how they hold that status. Pictured below is their outdoor pavilion, situated between a calm water feature on one side and a bustling park on the other.

Wednesday was a customer appreciation day of sorts, where Colette served up free food and sangria to local patrons. Upon entering the pavilion we were immediately offered freshly shucked oysters (good call guys!) and were greeted by the fragrant smell of a charcoal BBQ. Oysters are one of my favorite foods to eat in a restaurant because they are generally freshly shucked right before serving which reduces the possibility of cross-contamination. They are also a meal or snack on their own, and pair really well with either wine, bubbly, or beer, depending on the restaurant and location. There are enough varieties that the meal can be interesting without getting too adventurous into the front of unknown (and un-allergy-tested) foods. So oysters are unsurprisingly one of my go-to menu items to order when dining out.

I've been to Colette for coffee, lunch, and dinner many times and I'm always impressed with how they handle my food allergies. When dining with my family there are three of us with severe allergies and the staff is always able to accommodate our requests with diligence and grace. They tick off all the boxes I generally check for:
- The server is understanding, writes down the allergies, clarifies when needed, and doesn't make a patronizing remark
- They check with the chef before confirming that the item I've ordered is suitable
- The allergies are reiterated when the plate is brought to the table
- The staff is knowledgeable about the menu specifics and about allergens, cross contamination, etc.

View fullsize

Joella and Bran tasted some of their other offerings, including this delightful little salad skewer, a grilled octopus bite with raisins, and sangria. They gave rave reviews to everything especially the octopus. In Bran's words, "This is how octopus should be done!"

Another reason to visit Colette is the atmosphere. The place is full of thoughtful little touches and fresh flowers. It's a great place to sit and sip a coffee or linger after an abundant dinner.If you live in Toronto, head over there this weekend! And if you don't, add it to your list of places to try out on your next visit. You won't be disappointed.

Mands.